Chapter 3: Clothing and Fashion
Fashion in 18th century England was not only a matter of personal taste but also a significant indicator of social status. This chapter explores the clothing trends, materials, and social implications of fashion during this period.
Men’s Fashion
Men’s fashion in the 18th century typically consisted of breeches, waistcoats, and coats. Wigs were also an essential part of a gentleman’s attire. Dudley Ryder provides insight into the cost and care of these items:
Bought 5 yards of cloth to make a suit of clothes at 18s. per yard … Bespoke a wig of Colebuck.
Sent for my periwig maker for my wig, paid him £5 for it.
The maintenance of wigs was a daily concern, as Dr. Claver Morris notes:
Tom Parfitt began to fit a bord and supporters to the hoop I contrived for my peruke stand, to keep the hair powder from fowling the chamber.
Women’s Fashion
Women’s fashion was elaborate and often required assistance to put on. Mary Delany describes a fashionable outfit:
I have bought a gown and Petticoat, ’tis very fine blue satin, sprigged all over with white, and the petticoat facings and endings bordered in the manner of a trimming wove in the silk; this suit of clothes cost me sixteen pound.
Stays (corsets) were an essential part of women’s undergarments. Nancy Woodforde mentions:
Paid my Staymaker Barth for putting a new lyning into my Stays 2s.
Children’s Clothing
Young boys wore dresses until they were “breeched” (put into breeches) around the age of 4-7. Mary Delany questions this practice:
Is not three years old very young to be breeched?
Accessories and Jewelry
Accessories played a crucial role in completing an outfit. Gloves, in particular, were worn frequently. Mrs. Delany mentions:
The grand operation of boring the ears was done yesterday whilst I was abroad. Lady Cowper was to come to me in the afternoon to take leave, and the fear of the Turkey-stone earrings going out of town also determined the affair, and I think them very well done.
Fabric and Materials
A wide variety of fabrics were used, each with its own prestige and purpose. Common materials included silk, satin, muslin, and wool. Nancy Woodforde records a purchase:
Bought of Mrs Batchelor 2 yds and a quarter of muslin for which I paid 14s 6d.
Wigs and Hairstyles
Wigs for men and elaborate hairstyles for women were a significant part of 18th-century fashion. Powder was commonly used. Strother, a draper’s assistant, notes:
Paid Sansby the barber, 4s. for quarter of a year dressing on Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday every week; 8d. for half pound of Marechal Powder, 2d. for a paper box 6 inches by 3 and 3 high.
In conclusion, clothing and fashion in 18th century England were complex affairs, deeply intertwined with social status and etiquette. The care, cost, and attention given to clothing reflect its importance in society. From the elaborate wigs of gentlemen to the fine gowns of ladies, fashion was a crucial aspect of daily life and social interaction in this period.